Day 3 – La Louvière 🇧🇪 to Nassogne (The Ardennes) 🇧🇪

Countries: Just Belgium – 138 km

So today is the day I’m due to finally pick up the fabled Eurovelo. If you’ve got this far with the blog, you’re probably aware of the incredible Eurovelo scheme, a set of cross-continental cycle paths covering every conceivable direction and route in Europe. Today I plan on linking up with Eurovelo 5, a route which in its entirety would whip you from Canterbury in UK and all the way to Rome (along the historic Via Romea Francigena pilgrimage route). I plan on loosely following its curves south towards Basle, and then making a solo dash for The Alps.

An unexpected silver (or ahem, plastic) lining of this whole Covid situation is that each item of this morning’s hotel breakfast has been painstakingly wrapped in cellophane. While undoubtedly a complete ball ache of a chore for whomever the task fell upon, it has saved me the task of wrapping up a jersey lunch, fabulous.

Let’s talk about Google Maps. Google Maps is a fantastic tool, a simple interface, intuitive, it’ll broadly get you wherever you need to go. For driving, it’s difficult to beat. For cycling, however, it tends to deliver its unwitting rider on surfaces ranging from a freshly resurfaced Hermann Tilke (Turn 8, Turkish GP anyone?) motor racing circuit through to the gnarliest single-track. This morning Google has thrown the latter in my direction, resulting in the frame-mounted Kryptonite lock slipping from it’s harness and making a bid for freedom through the spokes. Thankfully no harm done, but I spend a good twenty minutes cursing: Kryptonite, Google and ultimately my poor decision making as I reattach it firmly to it’s proper position. Hours pass and patience exhausted I eventually elect to take a major road to Namur – I’d rather risk the odd close pass than spend another moment being beaten up on these trails. As the speed increases, the mood improves and before I know it, I’ve reached Namur, in the heart of the Belgian Ardennes. Time to gobble down the pre-wrapped lunch and pick up the Eurovelo! Early impressions are pretty good, it’s smooth, well signed and largely segregated to traffic.

Now I’m aware cycle touring is about the journey and not, necessarily, the destination, but I must confess, I start to find the Eurovelo path a tad meandering. It picturesquely snakes along the banks of the Meuse, but progress is slow, and I soon decide to make a B-line for the Airbnb (and back into the unpredictable arms of Google Maps). This afternoon, however, it behaves admirably, leading me up interesting and attractive minor roads.  After an initial couple of days without so much as a sniff of a gradient, I’m shocked to realise that The Ardennes is bloody hilly, and I’ve managed to choose accommodation the wrong side of an unnecessary chain of climbs! Despite the challenge of climbing with a laden bike, I enjoy the work, soak in the arborific views and arrive in the tiny village of Nassogne early evening to be greeted by JP, whose Airbnb room I’ll be staying in tonight. Simplistic, incredibly clean and well-priced, this is exactly the welcome I had hoped for.

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Just time to nip across the road for a hard-earned local beer and dinner before turning to bed. I’m ashamed to say I’m not a French speaker, and (wrongly) assumed Filet Americain would be a Fillet Steak. How wrong I was – out comes an intimidating mountain of raw Steak Tartare. Quickly dispatched (think of the gains) and time for bed. A good day’s touring and I’m excited at the prospect of crossing another border tomorrow – this time Luxembourg!