Days 23 and 24 – Vienna to Bratislava, Bratislava Rest Day 🇦🇹 🇸🇰

Countries: Austria and Slovakia. Distance: 13km run and 83km bike

In October 2019 Kenyan running superstar Eliud Kipchoge became the first human to complete a marathon distance (26.2 miles/42.2 kilometres) in under 2 hours. Previously thought to be impossible, this mind-bending feat of athleticism has become part of running folklore, mentionable in the same breath as other watershed feats such as Bannister’s breaking of the 4-minute mile. As opposed to the latter’s completion on cinders at Oxford University’s Iffley Road Track, Kipchoge’s achievement occurred here, through the city’s Prater Park – locally referred to as ‘The Green Lung of Vienna’. As a marathoner myself I’m keen to run, figuratively, in his footsteps.

“No Human is Limited” – I’m not sure the locals realised what all the fuss was about

Upon reaching Prater it’s clear to see exactly why this was selected. Pan flat, perfectly straight, tree lined and closed to motorised traffic. Aside from the park’s historic relevance, it’s simply a beautiful place to go for a run. Those who watched Kipchoge will recall memorable scenes as he accelerated towards the line, beating his chest once he knew he was going to break the record. To my mind, this deserves a grand monument, but is instead memorialised by a spray-painted 1:59:40 across the road. Satisfied and grateful for having had the opportunity to soak up this little bit of running history, I head back to the hotel to pack and prepare for a spin toward the unknown: Bratislava.

Lovely bit of post run, pre-ride carb loading

Just 50 miles separate the capitals of Austria and Slovakia, so it’s back to Eurovelo 6 and the predictable, billiard flat cycle path alongside The Danube. Stacking the deck even further in my favour is a stiff West to East tailwind, which sees me hitting the dizzy heights of 20mph most of the way (unheard of with all this luggage).

Tailwinds and blue skies

The border between Austria and Slovakia passes in unspectacular fashion. Austrian countryside is much the same as Slovakian countryside, but as you approach the city the changes become more pronounced. There are two sights that stand out as you approach: Bratislava Castle, an almost fairytale-esque renaissance style fortress juxtaposed against the incongruously intimidating ‘UFO’ bridge – a brutalist metallic Soviet style structure. It’s clear from the outset that Bratislava is a city of contrast.

After a brief cycle up to the castle to take a few photos, I head to my ‘pod’ hostel. Promising early impressions – very clean, outrageously cheap and well located. The pod design affords a greater degree of privacy than a standard dorm, with card operated lockers, USB charging and other thoughtful touches.

Hello from Bratislava Castle

Another day another walking tour hosted by an impressive, knowledgeable and enthusiastic polyglot. The history of Bratislava is fascinating, largely comprising of occupation and liberation (ranging from Ottomans, Turks, Habsburgs, and Napoleon to the Soviets), with each group leaving a mark on the city. The last of which ended in 1993 following the dissolution of Czechoslovakia. It has an attractive old town, friendly people and is well worth a visit.

A key benefit of hostelling is the people you meet. I was lucky to be rooming with 2 engaging characters: an MBA candidate from Paris, currently driving through Europe prior to starting his studies and a member of the Slovenian military, visiting friends across the continent. With the three of us each having interesting stories to tell we made the most of the cheap beer on offer (€1.50/pint, if you wondered) and made a night of it. A fitting farewell to Slovakia before crossing into the final country of the trip, Hungary, tomorrow.

Day 22 – Vienna Rest Day 🇦🇹

Each year the Mercer Quality of Living Survey evaluates 450 cities according to 39 factors (ranging from socio-cultural environment, to schools and education to recreation) to establish the ‘World’s Most Liveable City’ and for the past 10 years Vienna has emerged on top, beating the likes of Zurich, Vancouver, Munich and Auckland (2^nd – joint 5^th in 2019 respectively). With just 48 hours in town, I’m intrigued to understand the factors that make this such a special place.

The bike looking particularly out of place in this wonderful room!

So, first thing I find myself rushing across town to join a walking tour. With the luxury of not having to cycle anywhere and access to an absurdly comfortable bed I’ve overburdened the snooze button and find myself running late. Feeling distinctly hurried and un-Viennese, I grab a sandwich and espresso on the fly and fall into line.

Walking tours are a fabulous way to orientate yourself within a city and provide essential context and background to assist in understanding and appreciating the sights around you. Starting opposite the Albertina gallery we work our way through Habsburgian Winter Palaces, down highstreets, past numerous monuments to finish on Stephansplatz, overlooked by the stunning St Stephen’s cathedral and in the heart of the city. Before we depart our tour guide is keen to point out two vital lessons for maximising one’s time in Vienna.

If you choose to indulge in Sachertorte (which any self-respecting Great British Bake Off fan will know is a glossy chocolate sponge with apricot jam filling), you mustn’t look to save euros by foregoing whipped cream (sold separately). While there’s no risk of me seeking Sachertorte, I’m led to believe it’s incredibly dry without dairy accompaniment.
To visit Vienna and not visit The Habsburgian Summer Palace of Schönbrunn is tantamount to visiting Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. Well, that’s this afternoon’s plan sorted then!

The view from St Stephen’s Cathedral roof

Before darting towards Schönbrunn, and upon the guide’s final recommendation I lunch at Trzesniewski (pronounced: treas (like treasure) – knee – evvs-keeee) – Vienna’s fast food. Tiny rye bread half-sandwiches with punchy, colourful and flavourful toppings.

Littered with a history of housing Austria’s most relevant and prominent historical figures, Schönbrunn is a magnificent baroque palace located to the south west of the city. With impressive symmetry and extensive manicured gardens, it’s an exceptionally photogenic and worthwhile stop on any itinerary. I spend an enjoyable couple of hours walking the grounds, nursing a coffee and filling the memory card with duplicate photos before heading back to the hotel, freshening up and heading out for relaxed drinks in the bustling and buzzing centre.

I’d advocate walking up the hill for a particularly memorable coffee stop

I have just tomorrow morning left in Vienna before continuing down The Danube towards the 9^th country of the trip – Slovakia. While I’m excited to explore somewhere new, I’m reluctant to leave this fabulous, soulful city. In the short time I’ve been here I’ve merely scratched the surface of what Vienna has to offer yet am starting to understand its decade of dominance atop the World Liveability Index. To my mind, Vienna makes a wonderful city break and sits alongside iconic historic cities such as Rome, London and Paris. Once the world opens and we can all start travelling again, I’d urge anyone to promote Vienna to the very top of their travel-lists.

Day 21 – Saxen to Vienna 🇦🇹

Countries: Austria – 170 Kilometers

Perfectly following the bends of the Danube

The task today is a simple one: follow The Danube 110 miles downstream to Vienna. With a benign elevation profile, gentle tailwind, glorious sunshine and grandstand Viennese finish it should be a memorable ride.

Tacking on an additional 50km last night turned out to be a good decision. After a comfortable night’s sleep I’m well placed to rejoin Eurovelo 6 just a couple of kilometres from the front door. The room was one of those semi-professional/student accommodation type set ups with shared public spaces. I imagine, being so well located for the cycle path, that it’s usually packed with tourers heading in all directions, but I had the place entirely to myself so had plenty of space to splay out my belongings and repack prior to today’s big push.

A snapshot of Eurovelo 6

This section is popular with tour groups and families, and for good reason, it’s immaculately signposted, easily navigable and incredibly gentle. With all this in its favour progress is good and the kilometres sail by.

Similar to Eurovelo 15 between Austria/Switzerland and Liechtenstein, Eurovelo 6 has parallel paths running either side of the river. With bridges or ferries fairly infrequent (probably one every 30 kilometers or so), once you choose your path you’re committed. I started this morning on the Northern bank of the Danube and despite fantastic conditions found myself increasingly gazing across to the opposite bank suspecting that it may deliver a better experience still. Of course with each crossing, it became clear that the new path is scarcely discernible to the one left behind. I suspect there’s a moral to this story. Whichever side you choose, I can attest that Eurovelo 6 between Linz and Vienna is an outstanding route boasting: stunning riverside views, hilltop castles, plush orchards, abundant wildlife and bike-friendly cafes.

You know the route is flat when a 10% gradient has a warning sign. Aha – I guess you can’t be too careful!

As I say… this path is consistent

No matter how wonderful the path, the true appeal of today’s ride is the fact it terminates in Vienna, a magnificent and historic city. Having not visited before, I’ve scheduled a couple of rest days to enjoy the coffee houses, visit the galleries and explore the palaces. After a mammoth 100+ miles in the saddle, the tree-lined banks of the Danube eventually give way to buildings signalling the approach of a major city.

First impressions are superb with the Viennese architecture ranging from contemporary Zaha Hadid modernity through to grand neo-classical and baroque palaces.

Having captured the moment with a couple of snaps outside the Museum of Natural History, I pedal across to my hotel, check in and look forward to a long weekend discovering all Vienna has to offer.