travelling – Cycling Across Europe

200 kilometers, 3 countries: Luxembourg, France and Germany

Big day! I did not expect to be writing this 200km down the road from Luxembourg City, but sometimes everything comes together.

Anna’s (Airbnb) flat was warm, so I found myself waking up super early. As opposed trying to get more sleep, I start riding in the hope of finishing early. I’ve pre-booked accommodation in Saarbrucken, just 100km down the road from Luxembourg in anticipation of easing back into this touring lark. The planned route sweeps through Luxembourgian vineyards to Schengen, past the Schengen monument (memorialising the signing of the Schengen open borders agreement some 30 years ago), before flowing through a hilly series of French towns and into Germany. The conditions are superb, with a fierce tailwind blowing me East, and it seems to be shaping up to be an easy day.

Luxembourg Bike Wash (didn’t see another one all trip!)

A final note on Luxembourg and her wonderful cycling infrastructure – some 10km outside Luxembourg City I happen upon a bike washing station adjacent to the Eurovelo. It’s this kind of thoughtful touch that really allows Luxembourg to stand out as an incredibly cycle friendly country. I make use of the facilities, ignoring the fact that I spent a good hour the day before wiping the bike down with stacks of baby wipes – Doh!

A very sleepy looking hello from the border

Before long, the vineyards are behind me and I’m at Schengen. I snap a few photos, record a few videos and am on my way. Of course, in each of these videos I mistakenly identify the river separating Luxembourg from Germany as The Rhine, so all the videos are useless. However, if this question ever arises in a pub quiz, I will confidently reply that it’s, in fact, The Mosel that separates the two! (The Rhine is in fact a long way East from here, with the Saar coming before The Rhine). Don’t you worry, we’ll be seeing plenty of The Rhine over the coming days.

The topography changes sharply across The Mosel, with the hills coming thick and fast. However, it’s not hard for long and this graft is rewarded with a wonderful descent down to the Saar valley. Now a problem (a welcome problem!) – the morning’s progress has been sensational and by 1pm I’m already in the industrial town of Saarbrucken. As opposed to calling it a day and hanging up my shoes, I decide to make the most of the favourable conditions and pedal on. Who knows where I’ll end up.

Lunch is fabulously, Germanically beige (Wurst and potato salad). The hours tick by and come 5pm I’ve not chosen any accommodation. I still feel fresh but there’s no reasonable accommodation for miles. I opt for a branded budget hotel, despite the fact it’ll require a 200km day to reach and pedal on. At least this shortens the next day! Upon arrival, maddeningly and with 200km in the legs, there’s a sign on the door saying it’s closed due to Coronavirus and that I should head into town (5km) to stay in their sister hotel. Character building stuff.

Upon arrival it’s rather nice, I’m proud of a 200km day and am pleased to see progress on the map. That blue line is slowly closing in on The Alps!

Countries: Belgium and Luxembourg (and a border crossing!) – 122km

Part 1: Rain and despair! Part 2: Delightful riding on wonderful cycle paths

The great hospitality resumed today with a fantastic breakfast. Also, Rhubarb Jam – have you ever tried it? No, nor had I until this morning. Life changing.

Now after the heights of breakfast, spirits fell quickly. It’s wet outside. We’re talking Belgian Grand Prix 1998 wet (seriously, YouTube, I promise you won’t be disappointed), or if you prefer a biblical/literary reference Noah’s Arc wet. I’m sure Jay from The Inbetweeners would find another way to describe just how wet it was. It’s 20km to re-discover the Eurovelo following yesterday’s diversion, with 600ft of climbing in the first 3 miles. Perfect, a good opportunity to warm up right? Absolutely, but what goes up must come down and before I know it, I’m throwing on a merino base layer from the bag and trying the breathe life into my freezing fingers – it’s June!

Now, picking up on the meandering Eurovelo theme, and in recognition of the conditions, I again play Google Maps roulette to trim down the distance in the rain. A gamble too far and before I know it, I’m on such a rough surface that I’ve damage the fancy new pannier set on my bike – having to stop in the rain to perform a bush-repair with rubber puncture repair kit and gaffer tape. It holds so I can return to the task of mentally cursing Sundar Pichai and berating myself for not bloody learning from previous experience. With all the delays, poor route selection and general dithering I cover just 28 miles before lunch. However, the day is about to pick up and a wonderful afternoon is in store. Why you ask? We’re about to cross the border into Luxembourg!

Left: loads of fun on a Gravel Bike, not so much on a roadie. Right: Metal on metal wearing away the paint

I’m still at the stage where crossing any border excites me (does the novelty ever truly pass?) particularly under my own steam. Last year, following a classic Maid of the Mist/Hornblower mix up (one leaves from the Canadian side, the other from the US) , Jo and I crossed the mighty Niagara river over Rainbow Bridge from Canada into the US and recall the quiet satisfaction in crossing that invisible divisive line (shortly followed by the very visible immigration and customs offices at the end of the bridge!).

Again, a year earlier, the same feeling as I crossed Israeli/Jordanian border with a couple of good mates, (in altogether sterner conditions!). Thankfully in Europe, the borders are porous, but this doesn’t detract from the enjoyment.

So, a new frontier, an unvisited country and another tick in the ongoing game to check off as many countries as possible. Initial impressions are fantastic – Luxembourg’s cycle paths are wide, tarmacked and impeccably signed. The views are good, and I’m enjoying the array of friendly bovine livestock grazing alongside the track.

🐂🐄

When the going is good, you don’t really feel the kilometres clip by, but before I know it, I’ve been in Luxembourg for 80km and am in the capital – ready for my first rest day and keen to explore! Drop the bags, shower and head out for beer, dinner and vino. All in all, a memorable day.

Tag: travelling

Day 6 – Luxembourg City 🇱🇺 to Sarrebourg 🇫🇷 (via Saarbrucken 🇩🇪)

Day 4 – Nassogne 🇧🇪 to Luxembourg City 🇱🇺