Countries: Slovakia and Hungary. Distance: 162km

One of the joys of cycle touring is observing as the world slowly changes around you. From the language on the road signs, to topography, to climate, these changes are sometimes subtle and sometimes pronounced. Since departing Vienna towards Bratislava, the trip has taken on a distinctively different feel from the Germanic countries preceding this section.
Todayโs route, almost exclusively in Slovakia, initially tracks the man-made edges of the GabฤรญkovoโNagymaros Dam, before following the bends of The Danube and crossing into Hungary at Esztergom. The Danube, presumably artificially widened here, glistens in the sunshine as I pedal silently alongside the waterโs edge. Well mostly silently save an expletive barrage as a wasp flies into the vent on my cycle helmet and, as a parting gift, stings my finger as I fish it out. After initially being joined by other cyclists two hours pass without seeing another person, and I grow increasingly concerned that perhaps the bridge at the far end is closed to traffic. However, these apprehensions prove to be unfounded as eventually I arrive at the towering concrete control tower, dart across the bridge and re-join the cycle path, thankful to have both feet firmly back on terra firma.
Central Europe gets hot in summer, with the mercury reaching 35C today. With no infrastructure around the path, one simply has to get their head down and push on through the heat.

The views are pleasant, bike running well and I enjoy the hours exploring Slovakiaโs countryside. Itโs not until the final 10 kilometres of the day that the path degrades, slowing progress. However this is completely offset by the route passing through acres of sunflower fields and a low sun casting a golden glow over the closing miles of the day.

Itโs time for the final border crossing of the whole trip, and weโve undoubtedly saved the best for last.
Sat strategically astride the right bank of the river Danube is the city of Esztergom, former capital (from the 10th till the mid-13th century) and home to the tallest building in Hungary, the magnificent Esztergom Cathedral. As you cross from ล tรบrovo, this striking and majestic structure (similar in scale and design to Londonโs St Paulโs Cathedral) dominates the view and provides a truly awe-inspiring welcome. If this is to be the final border crossing this trip, itโs an unforgettable one. The stage is set for a memorable final day.














