Day 19 – Munich 🇩🇪 to Salzburg 🇦🇹

Countries: Germany and Austria – 149km

An afternoon spin linking two great cities

An early morning call from reception set the tone for what was a wonderful day. The part has arrived. Aware of the full context, they’re as excited about this development as I am as they smilingly hand over the parcel and watch as I depart with alacrity.

A gruff Scottish accent welcomes me as I flusteredly rack the bike and launch into the umpteenth retelling of ‘shiftergate’, explain that I’d spoken to Viktor and he’d agreed to see my bike. “Oh yeah, he’s expecting you”. Thank god!

The best cycle shops are those where you walk in and feel as though you’re catching up with friends. Despite being in the middle of Bavaria, there’s a Scotsman, Irishman and Welshman in the workshop, so with my arrival we form an unlikely quadrumvirate covering the British Isles. Viktor, hailing from Bulgaria, further contributes to the cross-European feel as we trade stories about our exploits on two wheels, including the glamorous “Munich to Milton Keynes” trip one of the mechanics completed last year. It also transpires that Viktor is a former Bulgarian downhill champion. These guys are pure bikers through and through.

It goes without saying that Viktor’s work on the bike was exemplary, but what really elevated Trek Cycles Munich North was the manner at which they extended a familial feel. Top blokes, great store and I’d urge anyone requiring any bike related works completing to drop by. Great coffee too.

It’s 90 miles to Salzburg: city of Mozart, The Sound of Music and UNESCO world heritage. The day has marched on and it’s gone 14:00 by the time I finally depart Munich. Despite knowing it’s going to be a late arrival I’m ecstatic to be touring again, a feeling which lingers despite the series of red lights accompanying the escape from the city.

The cycling is a mixture of average cycle paths and busy, yet perfectly tarmacked, roads. Conscious of the mileage outstanding and keen to see the sights, I opt predominantly to dice with the traffic and make excellent progress with a stiff tailwind.

Of course, we’re now in deepest, darkest Bavaria and the occasional cycle paths reflect that. Those with a nervous disposition should prepare themselves for extended periods pedalling alone through their very own Grimm fairy-tale. Thankfully this too had a happy ending and before too long I find myself back out in the sunshine – the trail of breadcrumbs modernised to a GPS track on my phone.

Lakes, Alps and working gears – what more could you want?

As one approaches Salzburg the topography changes. Peaks frame the horizon and lakes glisten as the sun lowers in the sky. It’s evenings like this where it’s a privilege to be on the bike. The novelty of seamless gear changes hasn’t worn off and I feel deeply contented clipping off the final few kilometres.

Having overspent on accommodation in Munich, I’ve opted to stay in a hostel tonight, repeating an experience I’ve not had since being a backpacker some years ago. I assume I’ll be so tired from exploits on the bike that sleep will come easily. I needn’t have worried. Sharing bathrooms was a faff and it was a pain not being able to splay out all my kit, but on balance I enjoyed the company. They’ve modernised substantially in recent years with clean rooms, key card operated lockers and importantly safe bike storage.

Despite the late hour, I head into town to find dinner and explore. Sat astride the river Salzach, Salzburg is a picture perfect town of bridges, churches and palaces.

Rich with history, it’s not long before I chance across Mozart’s Geburtshaus. A strikingly yellow building, presumably it’s a tremendous place to reflect on Mozart’s legacy and observe the authentically recreated 18^th century apartment of his youth. It’s also a fabulous place to pick up bread and a pint of milk as for some baffling reason, the planners have allowed a Spar supermarket to open on the ground floor. Joking aside, Salzburg is remarkably scenic and I look forward to a day of peddling through the famously melodically mortal hills in the morning.

Brush up on your history and pick up a pint of milk. Mozart’s Geburtshaus has it all

Days 14 – 18 – Munich and Augsburg 🇩🇪

A long weekend in Munich: city of beer halls, sprawling parks, great coffee shops, rich history and striking architecture. While mostly an opportunity to sightsee and relax, repairs need to be arranged for my limping machine. So, 4 days are spent phoning local bike shops trying to source both the necessary part and labour required to fit it. Easier said than done. Technology moves quickly, and my antiquated 10-speed system isn’t stocked by any of the (many) local stores I call. Thankfully I’m able to locate the component online (via the excellent https://www.bike-components.de/), leaving only labour to arrange. It transpires that Covid has caused a city-wide backlog for bike servicing. Countless store owners interestedly listen to my tale “that I’ve cycled from the UK, am headed to Budapest and need their help”, before darkly quoting an affectless 5 week wait to see the bike.

As I’m starting to consider the workability of continuing without repairing the gears, I secure a slot across the other side of the city for Tuesday morning. The difference? The guy (Viktor) on the other end of the phone is a pure biker, has toured before and understands my plight. He’s willing to move things around to get me back on the road. Legend. More on Viktor and the incredible team at Trek Bicycle Munich North in the coming days.

Home to the English Garden, one of the world’s largest urban parks with 75km of internal roads footpaths and bridle paths, Munich is a fantastic city for running. Starting out from the Holiday Inn Munich City Centre, I follow the bends of the River Isar before completing a wide loop of the park and returning through the historic city centre.

When working or travelling I make a point of getting out for a decent run, taking recommendations as to where to head. The English Garden is right up there with other bucket list city runs such as the Tiergarten – Berlin, Hyde Park – London and Central Park – New York. Plus, it has a surfable wave which is a fabulous novelty.

Gnarly waves dude

Another highlight comes on Sunday in the form of visiting Annika in Augsburg, a short train ride from Munich and one of Germany’s oldest cities. Annika has adopted a Romanian street dog (Finn) who arrives today after a 1400km journey of his own! A scruffy, nervous but cute little thing, it’s remarkable to see how his confidence grows hour by hour as he adapts to his new home. Finn’s a fine companion, drawing plenty of attention as we stroll the local parks, catch up and see the sights.

The extended stay allows me to address the administration I’ve been neglecting on the road. As you tour, the range of kit you utilise tends to distil to a few core items. Despite carrying a set of camping gear I’m yet to camp due to the abundance of well-priced (and roofed) accommodation. Extrapolating this trend, and with reluctance, the camping equipment is posted home. Carrying the tent was welcome insurance against not finding a bed, but the weight penalty of this policy (which seems highly unlikely to be redeemed) makes it a risk I’m willing to accept hereon in. I am aware, of course, of the utter ludicrousness of lugging: a tent, camping mat and sleeping bag over The Alps, just to send them back unused but have every confidence they’ll be used extensively on future adventures. I also take the opportunity to send home my road bike cleats in favour of the recessed (and consequently endlessly more practical) mountain bike alternative.

Munich is a wonderful city, but somewhat alienating during a pandemic. Social distancing has a particularly profound effect on place famed for its bonhomie. The usually packed and social benches of Hofbräuhaus are half empty, with interaction beyond your group discouraged. I’ve had some excellent meals, spent time with wonderful people and enjoyed taking in the sights but for now I’m quite looking forward to getting back on the road. I will return, in force and sans-bike, for the full hop-fuelled Bavarian experience in the near future!

Day 13 – Ottobeuren to Munich 🇩🇪 (unlucky for some)

Across Bavaria – 1926ft of elevation and one gear

The Velominati, self-elected “keepers of the cog” and all round authority on cycling etiquette suggest that should you draw race number 13, you should “turn the number upside down to counter-act its negative energy”. I am not a superstitious man, but in prospect it seems fitting that the day fraught with the most potential peril falls on Day 13 of the trip.

Anne’s bike shop is a convenient 2 minute downhill spin from the hotel, so I freewheel my way to arrive for opening. This is the middle of rural Bavaria, and I’m greeted by a pair of friendly local mechanics. Owing to my shameful lack of German, we’re able to communicate through our shared language of all-things bike. The diagnosis is quick (brandishing the shorn shifter probably helped), but sadly the prognosis is grim – this is an outdated and rare component. Not only do they not have it in stock, but they suspect it’ll be tricky to find anywhere in Germany. They are able, however, to ‘lock’ the chain in the middle of the rear cassette – to provide a single more manageable gear than the ‘top-gear’ it currently sits in. Ladies and gentlemen, the tour will have to continue on a fixie!

Despite spending 20 minutes working on my bike, re-lubing the chain and inflating the tyres, the mechanics refuse any payment. It’s occasions like this that you’re reminded of the fraternal nature of the cycling community. Thank you to Anne’s Bike Shop – Ottobeuren.

So with that, the task at hand becomes clear. With no local resolution possible, I’m going to cycle to Munich, in the hope of locating the labour and parts required to restore my bike to full functionality. The kicker? This 70 mile journey will be in a single gear. A quick check of the map reveals I’m in luck – Bavaria is rolling, but certainly not overly hilly.

Status update from the banks of Ammersee

It’s a pleasant route, winding through farms on minor open roads. Again, there’s a simplicity to the task at hand. With just the single gear, it’s not possible to push the pace so I soak up the sunshine and enjoy the rustic views. The road ramps to 10% every now and then, forcing me to hammer away at the pedals to stay upright, but for the most part it’s uneventful, methodical and dare I say rather enjoyable.

When Lake Ammersee rolls into sight, just 25km from Munich City Centre, I know that success is within reach and it’s not long before a series of red lights, divergent cycle paths and traffic signal the approach of a major city. It’s a sound strategy in these situations to shadow a local, for they will know when to gamble and when to be patient. Following this approach I follow a top-knotted chap (on a rather splendid steel city bike) right into the Neo-Gothic heart of Marienplatz.

Mission accomplished. Now to check into the Holiday Inn Munich City Centre, get changed and head out to celebrate. Serendipitously, it transpires that a friend I first met in the Whitsunday Islands four years ago also happens to be in Munich for the evening and kindly extends the offer to join them for pizza and vino. Fabulous company, great to catch up and we plan to meet in Augsburg (one of the oldest Cities in Germany I’m reliably informed) on Sunday.

In retrospect, it was fortunate the shifter snapped when it did. While cycling 150km in a single gear was inconvenient, it would have been truly catastrophic had it failed 3 days ago while slogging up an Alp. It introduced a degree of intrigue and challenge into today’s potentially humdrum route and will force me to spend a few more days in Munich, catching up with friends and experiencing a marvellous city. Perhaps the number 13 isn’t so unlucky after all.