Countries: Germany and Austria – 149km
An early morning call from reception set the tone for what was a wonderful day. The part has arrived. Aware of the full context, they’re as excited about this development as I am as they smilingly hand over the parcel and watch as I depart with alacrity.
A gruff Scottish accent welcomes me as I flusteredly rack the bike and launch into the umpteenth retelling of ‘shiftergate’, explain that I’d spoken to Viktor and he’d agreed to see my bike. “Oh yeah, he’s expecting you”. Thank god!
The best cycle shops are those where you walk in and feel as though you’re catching up with friends. Despite being in the middle of Bavaria, there’s a Scotsman, Irishman and Welshman in the workshop, so with my arrival we form an unlikely quadrumvirate covering the British Isles. Viktor, hailing from Bulgaria, further contributes to the cross-European feel as we trade stories about our exploits on two wheels, including the glamorous “Munich to Milton Keynes” trip one of the mechanics completed last year. It also transpires that Viktor is a former Bulgarian downhill champion. These guys are pure bikers through and through.
It goes without saying that Viktor’s work on the bike was exemplary, but what really elevated Trek Cycles Munich North was the manner at which they extended a familial feel. Top blokes, great store and I’d urge anyone requiring any bike related works completing to drop by. Great coffee too.
It’s 90 miles to Salzburg: city of Mozart, The Sound of Music and UNESCO world heritage. The day has marched on and it’s gone 14:00 by the time I finally depart Munich. Despite knowing it’s going to be a late arrival I’m ecstatic to be touring again, a feeling which lingers despite the series of red lights accompanying the escape from the city.
The cycling is a mixture of average cycle paths and busy, yet perfectly tarmacked, roads. Conscious of the mileage outstanding and keen to see the sights, I opt predominantly to dice with the traffic and make excellent progress with a stiff tailwind.
Of course, we’re now in deepest, darkest Bavaria and the occasional cycle paths reflect that. Those with a nervous disposition should prepare themselves for extended periods pedalling alone through their very own Grimm fairy-tale. Thankfully this too had a happy ending and before too long I find myself back out in the sunshine – the trail of breadcrumbs modernised to a GPS track on my phone.
As one approaches Salzburg the topography changes. Peaks frame the horizon and lakes glisten as the sun lowers in the sky. It’s evenings like this where it’s a privilege to be on the bike. The novelty of seamless gear changes hasn’t worn off and I feel deeply contented clipping off the final few kilometres.
Having overspent on accommodation in Munich, I’ve opted to stay in a hostel tonight, repeating an experience I’ve not had since being a backpacker some years ago. I assume I’ll be so tired from exploits on the bike that sleep will come easily. I needn’t have worried. Sharing bathrooms was a faff and it was a pain not being able to splay out all my kit, but on balance I enjoyed the company. They’ve modernised substantially in recent years with clean rooms, key card operated lockers and importantly safe bike storage.
Despite the late hour, I head into town to find dinner and explore. Sat astride the river Salzach, Salzburg is a picture perfect town of bridges, churches and palaces.
Rich with history, it’s not long before I chance across Mozart’s Geburtshaus. A strikingly yellow building, presumably it’s a tremendous place to reflect on Mozart’s legacy and observe the authentically recreated 18th century apartment of his youth. It’s also a fabulous place to pick up bread and a pint of milk as for some baffling reason, the planners have allowed a Spar supermarket to open on the ground floor. Joking aside, Salzburg is remarkably scenic and I look forward to a day of peddling through the famously melodically mortal hills in the morning.
Cycling Across Europe 