Day 22 – Vienna Rest Day ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น

Each year the Mercer Quality of Living Survey evaluates 450 cities according to 39 factors (ranging from socio-cultural environment, to schools and education to recreation) to establish the โ€˜Worldโ€™s Most Liveable Cityโ€™ and for the past 10 years Vienna has emerged on top, beating the likes of Zurich, Vancouver, Munich and Auckland (2nd โ€“ joint 5th in 2019 respectively). With just 48 hours in town, Iโ€™m intrigued to understand the factors that make this such a special place.

The bike looking particularly out of place in this wonderful room!

So, first thing I find myself rushing across town to join a walking tour. With the luxury of not having to cycle anywhere and access to an absurdly comfortable bed Iโ€™ve overburdened the snooze button and find myself running late. Feeling distinctly hurried and un-Viennese, I grab a sandwich and espresso on the fly and fall into line.

Walking tours are a fabulous way to orientate yourself within a city and provide essential context and background to assist in understanding and appreciating the sights around you. Starting opposite the Albertina gallery we work our way through Habsburgian Winter Palaces, down highstreets, past numerous monuments to finish on Stephansplatz, overlooked by the stunning St Stephenโ€™s cathedral and in the heart of the city. Before we depart our tour guide is keen to point out two vital lessons for maximising oneโ€™s time in Vienna.

  • If you choose to indulge in Sachertorte (which any self-respecting Great British Bake Off fan will know is a glossy chocolate sponge with apricot jam filling), you mustnโ€™t look to save euros by foregoing whipped cream (sold separately). While thereโ€™s no risk of me seeking Sachertorte, Iโ€™m led to believe itโ€™s incredibly dry without dairy accompaniment.
  • To visit Vienna and not visit The Habsburgian Summer Palace of Schรถnbrunn is tantamount to visiting Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. Well, thatโ€™s this afternoonโ€™s plan sorted then!
The view from St Stephen’s Cathedral roof

Before darting towards Schรถnbrunn, and upon the guideโ€™s final recommendation I lunch at Trzesniewski (pronounced: treas (like treasure) โ€“ knee โ€“ evvs-keeee) โ€“ Viennaโ€™s fast food. Tiny rye bread half-sandwiches with punchy, colourful and flavourful toppings.

Including classics such as “egg on egg”

Littered with a history of housing Austriaโ€™s most relevant and prominent historical figures, Schรถnbrunn is a magnificent baroque palace located to the south west of the city. With impressive symmetry and extensive manicured gardens, itโ€™s an exceptionally photogenic and worthwhile stop on any itinerary. I spend an enjoyable couple of hours walking the grounds, nursing a coffee and filling the memory card with duplicate photos before heading back to the hotel, freshening up and heading out for relaxed drinks in the bustling and buzzing centre.

Symmetrical Schonbrunn
I’d advocate walking up the hill for a particularly memorable coffee stop

I have just tomorrow morning left in Vienna before continuing down The Danube towards the 9th country of the trip โ€“ Slovakia. While Iโ€™m excited to explore somewhere new, Iโ€™m reluctant to leave this fabulous, soulful city. In the short time Iโ€™ve been here Iโ€™ve merely scratched the surface of what Vienna has to offer yet am starting to understand its decade of dominance atop the World Liveability Index. To my mind, Vienna makes a wonderful city break and sits alongside iconic historic cities such as Rome, London and Paris. Once the world opens and we can all start travelling again, Iโ€™d urge anyone to promote Vienna to the very top of their travel-lists.

Day 21 – Saxen to Vienna ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น

Countries: Austria – 170 Kilometers

Perfectly following the bends of the Danube

The task today is a simple one: follow The Danube 110 miles downstream to Vienna. With a benign elevation profile, gentle tailwind, glorious sunshine and grandstand Viennese finish it should be a memorable ride.

Student digs?

Tacking on an additional 50km last night turned out to be a good decision. After a comfortable nightโ€™s sleep Iโ€™m well placed to rejoin Eurovelo 6 just a couple of kilometres from the front door. The room was one of those semi-professional/student accommodation type set ups with shared public spaces. I imagine, being so well located for the cycle path, that itโ€™s usually packed with tourers heading in all directions, but I had the place entirely to myself so had plenty of space to splay out my belongings and repack prior to todayโ€™s big push.

A snapshot of Eurovelo 6

This section is popular with tour groups and families, and for good reason, itโ€™s immaculately signposted, easily navigable and incredibly gentle. With all this in its favour progress is good and the kilometres sail by.

Similar to Eurovelo 15 between Austria/Switzerland and Liechtenstein, Eurovelo 6 has parallel paths running either side of the river. With bridges or ferries fairly infrequent (probably one every 30 kilometers or so), once you choose your path youโ€™re committed. I started this morning on the Northern bank of the Danube and despite fantastic conditions found myself increasingly gazing across to the opposite bank suspecting that it may deliver a better experience still. Of course with each crossing, it became clear that the new path is scarcely discernible to the one left behind. I suspect thereโ€™s a moral to this story. Whichever side you choose, I can attest that Eurovelo 6 between Linz and Vienna is an outstanding route boasting: stunning riverside views, hilltop castles, plush orchards, abundant wildlife and bike-friendly cafes.

You know the route is flat when a 10% gradient has a warning sign. Aha – I guess you can’t be too careful!
As I say… this path is consistent

No matter how wonderful the path, the true appeal of todayโ€™s ride is the fact it terminates in Vienna, a magnificent and historic city. Having not visited before, Iโ€™ve scheduled a couple of rest days to enjoy the coffee houses, visit the galleries and explore the palaces. After a mammoth 100+ miles in the saddle, the tree-lined banks of the Danube eventually give way to buildings signalling the approach of a major city.

First impressions are superb with the Viennese architecture ranging from contemporary Zaha Hadid modernity through to grand neo-classical and baroque palaces.

Having captured the moment with a couple of snaps outside the Museum of Natural History, I pedal across to my hotel, check in and look forward to a long weekend discovering all Vienna has to offer.

A room with a view