Days 23 and 24 โ€“ Vienna to Bratislava, Bratislava Rest Day ๐Ÿ‡ฆ๐Ÿ‡น ๐Ÿ‡ธ๐Ÿ‡ฐ

Countries: Austria and Slovakia. Distance: 13km run and 83km bike

In October 2019 Kenyan running superstar Eliud Kipchoge became the first human to complete a marathon distance (26.2 miles/42.2 kilometres) in under 2 hours. Previously thought to be impossible, this mind-bending feat of athleticism has become part of running folklore, mentionable in the same breath as other watershed feats such as Bannisterโ€™s breaking of the 4-minute mile. As opposed to the latterโ€™s completion on cinders at Oxford University’s Iffley Road Track, Kipchogeโ€™s achievement occurred here, through the cityโ€™s Prater Park โ€“ locally referred to as โ€˜The Green Lung of Viennaโ€™. As a marathoner myself Iโ€™m keen to run, figuratively, in his footsteps.

“No Human is Limited” – I’m not sure the locals realised what all the fuss was about

Upon reaching Prater itโ€™s clear to see exactly why this was selected. Pan flat, perfectly straight, tree lined and closed to motorised traffic. Aside from the parkโ€™s historic relevance, itโ€™s simply a beautiful place to go for a run. Those who watched Kipchoge will recall memorable scenes as he accelerated towards the line, beating his chest once he knew he was going to break the record. To my mind, this deserves a grand monument, but is instead memorialised by a spray-painted 1:59:40 across the road. Satisfied and grateful for having had the opportunity to soak up this little bit of running history, I head back to the hotel to pack and prepare for a spin toward the unknown: Bratislava.

Just 50 miles separate the capitals of Austria and Slovakia, so itโ€™s back to Eurovelo 6 and the predictable, billiard flat cycle path alongside The Danube. Stacking the deck even further in my favour is a stiff West to East tailwind, which sees me hitting the dizzy heights of 20mph most of the way (unheard of with all this luggage).

Tailwinds and blue skies

The border between Austria and Slovakia passes in unspectacular fashion. Austrian countryside is much the same as Slovakian countryside, but as you approach the city the changes become more pronounced. There are two sights that stand out as you approach: Bratislava Castle, an almost fairytale-esque renaissance style fortress juxtaposed against the incongruously intimidating โ€˜UFOโ€™ bridge โ€“ a brutalist metallic Soviet style structure. Itโ€™s clear from the outset that Bratislava is a city of contrast.

UFO bridge
Juxtaposed with a fairytale castle!

After a brief cycle up to the castle to take a few photos, I head to my โ€˜podโ€™ hostel. Promising early impressions โ€“ very clean, outrageously cheap and well located. The pod design affords a greater degree of privacy than a standard dorm, with card operated lockers, USB charging and other thoughtful touches.

Hello from Bratislava Castle

Another day another walking tour hosted by an impressive, knowledgeable and enthusiastic polyglot. The history of Bratislava is fascinating, largely comprising of occupation and liberation (ranging from Ottomans, Turks, Habsburgs, and Napoleon to the Soviets), with each group leaving a mark on the city. The last of which ended in 1993 following the dissolution of Czechoslovakia. It has an attractive old town, friendly people and is well worth a visit.

Panorama

A key benefit of hostelling is the people you meet. I was lucky to be rooming with 2 engaging characters: an MBA candidate from Paris, currently driving through Europe prior to starting his studies and a member of the Slovenian military, visiting friends across the continent. With the three of us each having interesting stories to tell we made the most of the cheap beer on offer (โ‚ฌ1.50/pint, if you wondered) and made a night of it. A fitting farewell to Slovakia before crossing into the final country of the trip, Hungary, tomorrow.

Cheers