Day 26 – The Finale – Arrival in Budapest 🇭🇺

Countries: Hungary, Distance: 83km

So here we are, the final day. All roads lead to Budapest. It feels a lifetime ago that I rolled off the in ferry in Dunkirk, laden with bags, without a formal plan and struck out for Ypres. I couldn’t have imagined the adventure would take me through: France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Switzerland, over the Alps, Liechtenstein, Germany, Austria, Slovakia to finish here, in Hungary.

Despite this, I’m aware that the job isn’t yet finished and so refocus to the immediate tasks at hand: namely: packing the bags for the final time and heading out to the open road.

The final hostel was a good one. Located just meters from Esztergom Basilica, it provided a solid base to head out and explore this historic city. I joked upon entering Switzerland of its place at the top of The Economist’s Big Mac Index and the eye-watering cost of touring there. Hungary provides a perfect counterbalance to this with my monstrous cheese covered schnitzel and accompanying beers totalling a competitive £6. Exhausted from another 100 miles in the saddle I arrived back at the room, brushed my teeth and celebrated the final night of cycle touring by crashing out in my clothes. No one said this was glamourous!

Today is much shorter distance, along a section famed to be highly picturesque and enjoyable. Despite this, I find myself desperate to finish. It’s intriguing how the presence of the finish line can completely alter the mindset. I guess having travelled so far I’m nervous that a missed connection, mechanical failure or lapse in judgement could snatch defeat from the jaws of victory. However, the riding is good, path picturesque and I eventually settle into a rhythm. Over the course of the morning progress is halted twice by extended waits for ferries, as I accept that I’ll arrive eventually and start to savour the final moments of the trip.

The Citadella is a fortification towering 450ft above Budapest, providing stunning aerial panoramas back over the city. Following a month of spectacular experiences, I can’t think of a more fitting finale than to climb one last hill, figuratively plant my flag in the ground, and bring an end to this wonderful adventure. Appropriately, it’s a steep gradient in the hot midday sun, but I wouldn’t have it any other way. Nothing worth having in life is easy to attain and I enjoy this final effort.

As I stand atop the hill, soaking in the magnificent views, I feel an overwhelming sense of appreciation. What an absolute privilege it has been to have this experience. And now, as I write this, I want to thank you for reading this blog and joining me on this adventure. Finally, if you’re in any way inspired to go out and seek adventure of your own – I can’t recommend it highly enough. It starts by leaving the front door…

The view from the InterContinental Budapest

Day 25 – Bratislava 🇸🇰 to Esztergom 🇭🇺

Countries: Slovakia and Hungary. Distance: 162km

100 miles with 400ft of elevation gain. Truly a billiard table

One of the joys of cycle touring is observing as the world slowly changes around you. From the language on the road signs, to topography, to climate, these changes are sometimes subtle and sometimes pronounced. Since departing Vienna towards Bratislava, the trip has taken on a distinctively different feel from the Germanic countries preceding this section.

The wonderful Eurovelo 6 continues

Today’s route, almost exclusively in Slovakia, initially tracks the man-made edges of the Gabčíkovo–Nagymaros Dam, before following the bends of The Danube and crossing into Hungary at Esztergom. The Danube, presumably artificially widened here, glistens in the sunshine as I pedal silently alongside the water’s edge. Well mostly silently save an expletive barrage as a wasp flies into the vent on my cycle helmet and, as a parting gift, stings my finger as I fish it out. After initially being joined by other cyclists two hours pass without seeing another person, and I grow increasingly concerned that perhaps the bridge at the far end is closed to traffic. However, these apprehensions prove to be unfounded as eventually I arrive at the towering concrete control tower, dart across the bridge and re-join the cycle path, thankful to have both feet firmly back on terra firma.

A little background about this contentious dam (disclaimer – I’m simply retelling the story the Slovakian guide shared yesterday!)

Central Europe gets hot in summer, with the mercury reaching 35C today. With no infrastructure around the path, one simply has to get their head down and push on through the heat.

It’s hot!

The views are pleasant, bike running well and I enjoy the hours exploring Slovakia’s countryside. It’s not until the final 10 kilometres of the day that the path degrades, slowing progress. However this is completely offset by the route passing through acres of sunflower fields and a low sun casting a golden glow over the closing miles of the day.

It’s time for the final border crossing of the whole trip, and we’ve undoubtedly saved the best for last.

Welcome to Hungary

Yeah, I’m still not over this!

Sat strategically astride the right bank of the river Danube is the city of Esztergom, former capital (from the 10th till the mid-13th century) and home to the tallest building in Hungary, the magnificent Esztergom Cathedral. As you cross from Štúrovo, this striking and majestic structure (similar in scale and design to London’s St Paul’s Cathedral) dominates the view and provides a truly awe-inspiring welcome. If this is to be the final border crossing this trip, it’s an unforgettable one. The stage is set for a memorable final day.

Looking back at where I’ve come from – the stunning curve of the Danube

A fabulous welcome, and now just one day to Budapest

Days 23 and 24 – Vienna to Bratislava, Bratislava Rest Day 🇦🇹 🇸🇰

Countries: Austria and Slovakia. Distance: 13km run and 83km bike

In October 2019 Kenyan running superstar Eliud Kipchoge became the first human to complete a marathon distance (26.2 miles/42.2 kilometres) in under 2 hours. Previously thought to be impossible, this mind-bending feat of athleticism has become part of running folklore, mentionable in the same breath as other watershed feats such as Bannister’s breaking of the 4-minute mile. As opposed to the latter’s completion on cinders at Oxford University’s Iffley Road Track, Kipchoge’s achievement occurred here, through the city’s Prater Park – locally referred to as ‘The Green Lung of Vienna’. As a marathoner myself I’m keen to run, figuratively, in his footsteps.

“No Human is Limited” – I’m not sure the locals realised what all the fuss was about

Upon reaching Prater it’s clear to see exactly why this was selected. Pan flat, perfectly straight, tree lined and closed to motorised traffic. Aside from the park’s historic relevance, it’s simply a beautiful place to go for a run. Those who watched Kipchoge will recall memorable scenes as he accelerated towards the line, beating his chest once he knew he was going to break the record. To my mind, this deserves a grand monument, but is instead memorialised by a spray-painted 1:59:40 across the road. Satisfied and grateful for having had the opportunity to soak up this little bit of running history, I head back to the hotel to pack and prepare for a spin toward the unknown: Bratislava.

Lovely bit of post run, pre-ride carb loading

Just 50 miles separate the capitals of Austria and Slovakia, so it’s back to Eurovelo 6 and the predictable, billiard flat cycle path alongside The Danube. Stacking the deck even further in my favour is a stiff West to East tailwind, which sees me hitting the dizzy heights of 20mph most of the way (unheard of with all this luggage).

Tailwinds and blue skies

The border between Austria and Slovakia passes in unspectacular fashion. Austrian countryside is much the same as Slovakian countryside, but as you approach the city the changes become more pronounced. There are two sights that stand out as you approach: Bratislava Castle, an almost fairytale-esque renaissance style fortress juxtaposed against the incongruously intimidating ‘UFO’ bridge – a brutalist metallic Soviet style structure. It’s clear from the outset that Bratislava is a city of contrast.

After a brief cycle up to the castle to take a few photos, I head to my ‘pod’ hostel. Promising early impressions – very clean, outrageously cheap and well located. The pod design affords a greater degree of privacy than a standard dorm, with card operated lockers, USB charging and other thoughtful touches.

Hello from Bratislava Castle

Another day another walking tour hosted by an impressive, knowledgeable and enthusiastic polyglot. The history of Bratislava is fascinating, largely comprising of occupation and liberation (ranging from Ottomans, Turks, Habsburgs, and Napoleon to the Soviets), with each group leaving a mark on the city. The last of which ended in 1993 following the dissolution of Czechoslovakia. It has an attractive old town, friendly people and is well worth a visit.

A key benefit of hostelling is the people you meet. I was lucky to be rooming with 2 engaging characters: an MBA candidate from Paris, currently driving through Europe prior to starting his studies and a member of the Slovenian military, visiting friends across the continent. With the three of us each having interesting stories to tell we made the most of the cheap beer on offer (€1.50/pint, if you wondered) and made a night of it. A fitting farewell to Slovakia before crossing into the final country of the trip, Hungary, tomorrow.

Day 22 – Vienna Rest Day 🇦🇹

Each year the Mercer Quality of Living Survey evaluates 450 cities according to 39 factors (ranging from socio-cultural environment, to schools and education to recreation) to establish the ‘World’s Most Liveable City’ and for the past 10 years Vienna has emerged on top, beating the likes of Zurich, Vancouver, Munich and Auckland (2^nd – joint 5^th in 2019 respectively). With just 48 hours in town, I’m intrigued to understand the factors that make this such a special place.

The bike looking particularly out of place in this wonderful room!

So, first thing I find myself rushing across town to join a walking tour. With the luxury of not having to cycle anywhere and access to an absurdly comfortable bed I’ve overburdened the snooze button and find myself running late. Feeling distinctly hurried and un-Viennese, I grab a sandwich and espresso on the fly and fall into line.

Walking tours are a fabulous way to orientate yourself within a city and provide essential context and background to assist in understanding and appreciating the sights around you. Starting opposite the Albertina gallery we work our way through Habsburgian Winter Palaces, down highstreets, past numerous monuments to finish on Stephansplatz, overlooked by the stunning St Stephen’s cathedral and in the heart of the city. Before we depart our tour guide is keen to point out two vital lessons for maximising one’s time in Vienna.

If you choose to indulge in Sachertorte (which any self-respecting Great British Bake Off fan will know is a glossy chocolate sponge with apricot jam filling), you mustn’t look to save euros by foregoing whipped cream (sold separately). While there’s no risk of me seeking Sachertorte, I’m led to believe it’s incredibly dry without dairy accompaniment.
To visit Vienna and not visit The Habsburgian Summer Palace of Schönbrunn is tantamount to visiting Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. Well, that’s this afternoon’s plan sorted then!

The view from St Stephen’s Cathedral roof

Before darting towards Schönbrunn, and upon the guide’s final recommendation I lunch at Trzesniewski (pronounced: treas (like treasure) – knee – evvs-keeee) – Vienna’s fast food. Tiny rye bread half-sandwiches with punchy, colourful and flavourful toppings.

Littered with a history of housing Austria’s most relevant and prominent historical figures, Schönbrunn is a magnificent baroque palace located to the south west of the city. With impressive symmetry and extensive manicured gardens, it’s an exceptionally photogenic and worthwhile stop on any itinerary. I spend an enjoyable couple of hours walking the grounds, nursing a coffee and filling the memory card with duplicate photos before heading back to the hotel, freshening up and heading out for relaxed drinks in the bustling and buzzing centre.

I’d advocate walking up the hill for a particularly memorable coffee stop

I have just tomorrow morning left in Vienna before continuing down The Danube towards the 9^th country of the trip – Slovakia. While I’m excited to explore somewhere new, I’m reluctant to leave this fabulous, soulful city. In the short time I’ve been here I’ve merely scratched the surface of what Vienna has to offer yet am starting to understand its decade of dominance atop the World Liveability Index. To my mind, Vienna makes a wonderful city break and sits alongside iconic historic cities such as Rome, London and Paris. Once the world opens and we can all start travelling again, I’d urge anyone to promote Vienna to the very top of their travel-lists.

Day 21 – Saxen to Vienna 🇦🇹

Countries: Austria – 170 Kilometers

Perfectly following the bends of the Danube

The task today is a simple one: follow The Danube 110 miles downstream to Vienna. With a benign elevation profile, gentle tailwind, glorious sunshine and grandstand Viennese finish it should be a memorable ride.

Tacking on an additional 50km last night turned out to be a good decision. After a comfortable night’s sleep I’m well placed to rejoin Eurovelo 6 just a couple of kilometres from the front door. The room was one of those semi-professional/student accommodation type set ups with shared public spaces. I imagine, being so well located for the cycle path, that it’s usually packed with tourers heading in all directions, but I had the place entirely to myself so had plenty of space to splay out my belongings and repack prior to today’s big push.

A snapshot of Eurovelo 6

This section is popular with tour groups and families, and for good reason, it’s immaculately signposted, easily navigable and incredibly gentle. With all this in its favour progress is good and the kilometres sail by.

Similar to Eurovelo 15 between Austria/Switzerland and Liechtenstein, Eurovelo 6 has parallel paths running either side of the river. With bridges or ferries fairly infrequent (probably one every 30 kilometers or so), once you choose your path you’re committed. I started this morning on the Northern bank of the Danube and despite fantastic conditions found myself increasingly gazing across to the opposite bank suspecting that it may deliver a better experience still. Of course with each crossing, it became clear that the new path is scarcely discernible to the one left behind. I suspect there’s a moral to this story. Whichever side you choose, I can attest that Eurovelo 6 between Linz and Vienna is an outstanding route boasting: stunning riverside views, hilltop castles, plush orchards, abundant wildlife and bike-friendly cafes.

You know the route is flat when a 10% gradient has a warning sign. Aha – I guess you can’t be too careful!

As I say… this path is consistent

No matter how wonderful the path, the true appeal of today’s ride is the fact it terminates in Vienna, a magnificent and historic city. Having not visited before, I’ve scheduled a couple of rest days to enjoy the coffee houses, visit the galleries and explore the palaces. After a mammoth 100+ miles in the saddle, the tree-lined banks of the Danube eventually give way to buildings signalling the approach of a major city.

First impressions are superb with the Viennese architecture ranging from contemporary Zaha Hadid modernity through to grand neo-classical and baroque palaces.

Having captured the moment with a couple of snaps outside the Museum of Natural History, I pedal across to my hotel, check in and look forward to a long weekend discovering all Vienna has to offer.

Day 20 – Salzburg to Saxen 🇦🇹

Countries: Austria – Distance: 173km

Free breakfast in the hostel? The dorm cost €11! Surely not?

Ok, so the breakfast consisted of white bread rolls, jam and black coffee – but really, do you need anything else to ride a bike? I had planned on heading into Salzburg and having a relaxed morning and full breakfast, but the promise of instant convenience and a fast getaway proved too tempting. Salzburg absolutely deserves a return visit.

Before departing I decide to check out a local viewpoint said to provide a stunning vista across the city. The gradient is far too steep to peddle, so I scramble up the wet cobblestones, judiciously applying the brakes to keep the bike in step. Despite the overcast morning subduing the tones, the view was well worth the climb. The plan now is to find a suitable cycle path and get out of town.

Overcast Salzburg Panorama

Salzburg is the fourth largest city in Austria, and the initial escape is consequently congested. Once you’re finally out of the very heart of the city you’re treated to fantastically scenic, rolling trails calving through plush green hillsides. This continues for a solid 30 miles until you’re on the edge of the Salzburg municipal area, at which point it goes downhill (figuratively) fast.

When the path is good, it’s really good

Supermarket lunch on the road. As I said, this is no glamour tour

Reminiscent of Toad’s Turnpike, Google Maps throws a metaphorical blue shell in the form of 50 miles of joyless busy highway before returning to blissful segregated cycle paths as the route approaches Linz. It’s this dissonance that makes Google Maps so infuriating to use. For every Dr Jekyll there’s a Mr. Hyde. Surely in crossing between Salzburg and Linz there must be hundreds of kilometers of picturesque and quiet rural roads. I pledge to precisely plan my path for prospective projects, but for now, the course suits my purpose and I continue to make excellent progress.

Excitable introduction to The Danube

The initial plan was to bed for the night in Linz, requiring a substantial 220km effort to reach Vienna the following day. Seeing as the weather is so pleasant, it seems logical to continue and trim the distance required tomorrow. I book a homestay some 50km down the road and enjoy a magnificent evening session alongside the Danube.

Further excitable introduction to the Danube

Akin to crossing a border, there’s something satisfying about joining a river of note. We’ve thus far seen the: Meuse (Belgium/France), Mosel (Luxembourg, France, Germany), Saar (Germany, France), Rhine (Germany, France, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria), in addition to numerous tributaries such as the Salzach and Isar. Joining the Danube feels particularly momentous, as this will be our final fluvial accompaniment and remain by our side for the rest of the trip. It also means we’re re-joining EuroVelo 6. This section is as close to cycle path perfection as you’re likely to find, pan flat, great surface and with numerous bike friendly restaurants and bars along the water’s edge.

The salad was a side order… I guess there are vitamins in ketchup right?

The kilometres sail by, I find a (truly) gigantic schnitzel (this is Austria after all) and settle in for a comfortable night at the well-equipped accommodation. 107 miles today yet feeling fresh. Will need to do the same again to reach Vienna. Can hardly wait.

Day 19 – Munich 🇩🇪 to Salzburg 🇦🇹

Countries: Germany and Austria – 149km

An afternoon spin linking two great cities

An early morning call from reception set the tone for what was a wonderful day. The part has arrived. Aware of the full context, they’re as excited about this development as I am as they smilingly hand over the parcel and watch as I depart with alacrity.

A gruff Scottish accent welcomes me as I flusteredly rack the bike and launch into the umpteenth retelling of ‘shiftergate’, explain that I’d spoken to Viktor and he’d agreed to see my bike. “Oh yeah, he’s expecting you”. Thank god!

The best cycle shops are those where you walk in and feel as though you’re catching up with friends. Despite being in the middle of Bavaria, there’s a Scotsman, Irishman and Welshman in the workshop, so with my arrival we form an unlikely quadrumvirate covering the British Isles. Viktor, hailing from Bulgaria, further contributes to the cross-European feel as we trade stories about our exploits on two wheels, including the glamorous “Munich to Milton Keynes” trip one of the mechanics completed last year. It also transpires that Viktor is a former Bulgarian downhill champion. These guys are pure bikers through and through.

It goes without saying that Viktor’s work on the bike was exemplary, but what really elevated Trek Cycles Munich North was the manner at which they extended a familial feel. Top blokes, great store and I’d urge anyone requiring any bike related works completing to drop by. Great coffee too.

It’s 90 miles to Salzburg: city of Mozart, The Sound of Music and UNESCO world heritage. The day has marched on and it’s gone 14:00 by the time I finally depart Munich. Despite knowing it’s going to be a late arrival I’m ecstatic to be touring again, a feeling which lingers despite the series of red lights accompanying the escape from the city.

The cycling is a mixture of average cycle paths and busy, yet perfectly tarmacked, roads. Conscious of the mileage outstanding and keen to see the sights, I opt predominantly to dice with the traffic and make excellent progress with a stiff tailwind.

Of course, we’re now in deepest, darkest Bavaria and the occasional cycle paths reflect that. Those with a nervous disposition should prepare themselves for extended periods pedalling alone through their very own Grimm fairy-tale. Thankfully this too had a happy ending and before too long I find myself back out in the sunshine – the trail of breadcrumbs modernised to a GPS track on my phone.

Lakes, Alps and working gears – what more could you want?

As one approaches Salzburg the topography changes. Peaks frame the horizon and lakes glisten as the sun lowers in the sky. It’s evenings like this where it’s a privilege to be on the bike. The novelty of seamless gear changes hasn’t worn off and I feel deeply contented clipping off the final few kilometres.

Having overspent on accommodation in Munich, I’ve opted to stay in a hostel tonight, repeating an experience I’ve not had since being a backpacker some years ago. I assume I’ll be so tired from exploits on the bike that sleep will come easily. I needn’t have worried. Sharing bathrooms was a faff and it was a pain not being able to splay out all my kit, but on balance I enjoyed the company. They’ve modernised substantially in recent years with clean rooms, key card operated lockers and importantly safe bike storage.

Despite the late hour, I head into town to find dinner and explore. Sat astride the river Salzach, Salzburg is a picture perfect town of bridges, churches and palaces.

Rich with history, it’s not long before I chance across Mozart’s Geburtshaus. A strikingly yellow building, presumably it’s a tremendous place to reflect on Mozart’s legacy and observe the authentically recreated 18^th century apartment of his youth. It’s also a fabulous place to pick up bread and a pint of milk as for some baffling reason, the planners have allowed a Spar supermarket to open on the ground floor. Joking aside, Salzburg is remarkably scenic and I look forward to a day of peddling through the famously melodically mortal hills in the morning.

Brush up on your history and pick up a pint of milk. Mozart’s Geburtshaus has it all

Days 14 – 18 – Munich and Augsburg 🇩🇪

A long weekend in Munich: city of beer halls, sprawling parks, great coffee shops, rich history and striking architecture. While mostly an opportunity to sightsee and relax, repairs need to be arranged for my limping machine. So, 4 days are spent phoning local bike shops trying to source both the necessary part and labour required to fit it. Easier said than done. Technology moves quickly, and my antiquated 10-speed system isn’t stocked by any of the (many) local stores I call. Thankfully I’m able to locate the component online (via the excellent https://www.bike-components.de/), leaving only labour to arrange. It transpires that Covid has caused a city-wide backlog for bike servicing. Countless store owners interestedly listen to my tale “that I’ve cycled from the UK, am headed to Budapest and need their help”, before darkly quoting an affectless 5 week wait to see the bike.

As I’m starting to consider the workability of continuing without repairing the gears, I secure a slot across the other side of the city for Tuesday morning. The difference? The guy (Viktor) on the other end of the phone is a pure biker, has toured before and understands my plight. He’s willing to move things around to get me back on the road. Legend. More on Viktor and the incredible team at Trek Bicycle Munich North in the coming days.

Home to the English Garden, one of the world’s largest urban parks with 75km of internal roads footpaths and bridle paths, Munich is a fantastic city for running. Starting out from the Holiday Inn Munich City Centre, I follow the bends of the River Isar before completing a wide loop of the park and returning through the historic city centre.

When working or travelling I make a point of getting out for a decent run, taking recommendations as to where to head. The English Garden is right up there with other bucket list city runs such as the Tiergarten – Berlin, Hyde Park – London and Central Park – New York. Plus, it has a surfable wave which is a fabulous novelty.

Gnarly waves dude

Another highlight comes on Sunday in the form of visiting Annika in Augsburg, a short train ride from Munich and one of Germany’s oldest cities. Annika has adopted a Romanian street dog (Finn) who arrives today after a 1400km journey of his own! A scruffy, nervous but cute little thing, it’s remarkable to see how his confidence grows hour by hour as he adapts to his new home. Finn’s a fine companion, drawing plenty of attention as we stroll the local parks, catch up and see the sights.

The extended stay allows me to address the administration I’ve been neglecting on the road. As you tour, the range of kit you utilise tends to distil to a few core items. Despite carrying a set of camping gear I’m yet to camp due to the abundance of well-priced (and roofed) accommodation. Extrapolating this trend, and with reluctance, the camping equipment is posted home. Carrying the tent was welcome insurance against not finding a bed, but the weight penalty of this policy (which seems highly unlikely to be redeemed) makes it a risk I’m willing to accept hereon in. I am aware, of course, of the utter ludicrousness of lugging: a tent, camping mat and sleeping bag over The Alps, just to send them back unused but have every confidence they’ll be used extensively on future adventures. I also take the opportunity to send home my road bike cleats in favour of the recessed (and consequently endlessly more practical) mountain bike alternative.

Munich is a wonderful city, but somewhat alienating during a pandemic. Social distancing has a particularly profound effect on place famed for its bonhomie. The usually packed and social benches of Hofbräuhaus are half empty, with interaction beyond your group discouraged. I’ve had some excellent meals, spent time with wonderful people and enjoyed taking in the sights but for now I’m quite looking forward to getting back on the road. I will return, in force and sans-bike, for the full hop-fuelled Bavarian experience in the near future!