Each year the Mercer Quality of Living Survey evaluates 450 cities according to 39 factors (ranging from socio-cultural environment, to schools and education to recreation) to establish the ‘World’s Most Liveable City’ and for the past 10 years Vienna has emerged on top, beating the likes of Zurich, Vancouver, Munich and Auckland (2nd – joint 5th in 2019 respectively). With just 48 hours in town, I’m intrigued to understand the factors that make this such a special place.
So, first thing I find myself rushing across town to join a walking tour. With the luxury of not having to cycle anywhere and access to an absurdly comfortable bed I’ve overburdened the snooze button and find myself running late. Feeling distinctly hurried and un-Viennese, I grab a sandwich and espresso on the fly and fall into line.
Walking tours are a fabulous way to orientate yourself within a city and provide essential context and background to assist in understanding and appreciating the sights around you. Starting opposite the Albertina gallery we work our way through Habsburgian Winter Palaces, down highstreets, past numerous monuments to finish on Stephansplatz, overlooked by the stunning St Stephen’s cathedral and in the heart of the city. Before we depart our tour guide is keen to point out two vital lessons for maximising one’s time in Vienna.
- If you choose to indulge in Sachertorte (which any self-respecting Great British Bake Off fan will know is a glossy chocolate sponge with apricot jam filling), you mustn’t look to save euros by foregoing whipped cream (sold separately). While there’s no risk of me seeking Sachertorte, I’m led to believe it’s incredibly dry without dairy accompaniment.
- To visit Vienna and not visit The Habsburgian Summer Palace of Schönbrunn is tantamount to visiting Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. Well, that’s this afternoon’s plan sorted then!
Before darting towards Schönbrunn, and upon the guide’s final recommendation I lunch at Trzesniewski (pronounced: treas (like treasure) – knee – evvs-keeee) – Vienna’s fast food. Tiny rye bread half-sandwiches with punchy, colourful and flavourful toppings.
Littered with a history of housing Austria’s most relevant and prominent historical figures, Schönbrunn is a magnificent baroque palace located to the south west of the city. With impressive symmetry and extensive manicured gardens, it’s an exceptionally photogenic and worthwhile stop on any itinerary. I spend an enjoyable couple of hours walking the grounds, nursing a coffee and filling the memory card with duplicate photos before heading back to the hotel, freshening up and heading out for relaxed drinks in the bustling and buzzing centre.
I have just tomorrow morning left in Vienna before continuing down The Danube towards the 9th country of the trip – Slovakia. While I’m excited to explore somewhere new, I’m reluctant to leave this fabulous, soulful city. In the short time I’ve been here I’ve merely scratched the surface of what Vienna has to offer yet am starting to understand its decade of dominance atop the World Liveability Index. To my mind, Vienna makes a wonderful city break and sits alongside iconic historic cities such as Rome, London and Paris. Once the world opens and we can all start travelling again, I’d urge anyone to promote Vienna to the very top of their travel-lists.
Cycling Across Europe 