Countries: Austria – Distance: 173km
Free breakfast in the hostel? The dorm cost €11! Surely not?
Ok, so the breakfast consisted of white bread rolls, jam and black coffee – but really, do you need anything else to ride a bike? I had planned on heading into Salzburg and having a relaxed morning and full breakfast, but the promise of instant convenience and a fast getaway proved too tempting. Salzburg absolutely deserves a return visit.
Before departing I decide to check out a local viewpoint said to provide a stunning vista across the city. The gradient is far too steep to peddle, so I scramble up the wet cobblestones, judiciously applying the brakes to keep the bike in step. Despite the overcast morning subduing the tones, the view was well worth the climb. The plan now is to find a suitable cycle path and get out of town.
Salzburg is the fourth largest city in Austria, and the initial escape is consequently congested. Once you’re finally out of the very heart of the city you’re treated to fantastically scenic, rolling trails calving through plush green hillsides. This continues for a solid 30 miles until you’re on the edge of the Salzburg municipal area, at which point it goes downhill (figuratively) fast.
Reminiscent of Toad’s Turnpike, Google Maps throws a metaphorical blue shell in the form of 50 miles of joyless busy highway before returning to blissful segregated cycle paths as the route approaches Linz. It’s this dissonance that makes Google Maps so infuriating to use. For every Dr Jekyll there’s a Mr. Hyde. Surely in crossing between Salzburg and Linz there must be hundreds of kilometers of picturesque and quiet rural roads. I pledge to precisely plan my path for prospective projects, but for now, the course suits my purpose and I continue to make excellent progress.
The initial plan was to bed for the night in Linz, requiring a substantial 220km effort to reach Vienna the following day. Seeing as the weather is so pleasant, it seems logical to continue and trim the distance required tomorrow. I book a homestay some 50km down the road and enjoy a magnificent evening session alongside the Danube.
Akin to crossing a border, there’s something satisfying about joining a river of note. We’ve thus far seen the: Meuse (Belgium/France), Mosel (Luxembourg, France, Germany), Saar (Germany, France), Rhine (Germany, France, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria), in addition to numerous tributaries such as the Salzach and Isar. Joining the Danube feels particularly momentous, as this will be our final fluvial accompaniment and remain by our side for the rest of the trip. It also means we’re re-joining EuroVelo 6. This section is as close to cycle path perfection as you’re likely to find, pan flat, great surface and with numerous bike friendly restaurants and bars along the water’s edge.
The kilometres sail by, I find a (truly) gigantic schnitzel (this is Austria after all) and settle in for a comfortable night at the well-equipped accommodation. 107 miles today yet feeling fresh. Will need to do the same again to reach Vienna. Can hardly wait.
Cycling Across Europe 