Throughout July 2020, having been furloughed temporarily from my job, I decided to load up my bike and go solo cycle touring through Europe. A London based hotel Developer by trade, I’m happiest when out on the trails or travelling somewhere new: be it running marathons, racing on two wheels or checking out the latest new hotel openings. Loosely following the fabulous Eurovelo cycle paths, and without a real plan, I pedalled wherever I fancied with an initial goal of reaching (and summiting) an Alp.
Of course, once I descending from the alpine heights of Oberalppass, in the heart of the beautiful Swiss Alps, I realised I wasn’t ready to head home just yet, and decided to head East. Still then, I had little idea the trip would morph into a 10 country epic through: The UK, France, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, that I’d cover 2400km, visit a host of incredible places (Strasbourg, Mons, Ypres, Basle, Lucerne, Munich, Salzberg, Vienna, Bratislava, Budapest to name a few), and have so many wonderful (and challenging!) experiences.
I hope in writing this I can convey my reality of cycle touring, provide recommendations based upon recent experience, and perhaps, should you be so inclined, to give you that little push to go out and seek adventure of your own
https://www.instagram.com/sambarrell/
https://www.strava.com/athletes/1046658
The Route
Gallery
Full Blog Posts
- Introduction
I’d love to say the completion of this trip was a triumph of: meticulous preparation, mechanical self-sufficiency, and expert route planning, however the reality was rather different. This trip was an exercise in impromptu decision making, bicycle bush-repairs, luck, grit, compromise and pragmatism. Here’s my account of riding from the UK to Budapest, via The … Continue reading Introduction - Day 1 – Folkestone 🇬🇧 to Ypres 🇧🇪
84km: United Kingdom, France and Belgium There’s only so much research one can do into the relative advantages of one piece of gear over another, obsess over road surfaces thousands of kilometers from home or agonise over far off logistical arrangements. To go cycle touring, you simply need to leave home. Today is that day. … Continue reading Day 1 – Folkestone 🇬🇧 to Ypres 🇧🇪 - Day 2 – Ypres 🇧🇪 to La Louviere 🇧🇪
142 kilometers. Countries: Belgium and France A key part of a cycle tourist’s day is using the breakfast buffet to create a jersey pocket lunchtime feast. Top marks awarded for packable, proteinous options that give you something to look forward to down the road. Together with the host positively pushing all manner of bars and … Continue reading Day 2 – Ypres 🇧🇪 to La Louviere 🇧🇪 - Day 3 – La Louvière 🇧🇪 to Nassogne (The Ardennes) 🇧🇪
Countries: Just Belgium – 138 km So today is the day I’m due to finally pick up the fabled Eurovelo. If you’ve got this far with the blog, you’re probably aware of the incredible Eurovelo scheme, a set of cross-continental cycle paths covering every conceivable direction and route in Europe. Today I plan on linking … Continue reading Day 3 – La Louvière 🇧🇪 to Nassogne (The Ardennes) 🇧🇪 - Day 4 – Nassogne 🇧🇪 to Luxembourg City 🇱🇺
Countries: Belgium and Luxembourg (and a border crossing!) – 122km The great hospitality resumed today with a fantastic breakfast. Also, Rhubarb Jam – have you ever tried it? No, nor had I until this morning. Life changing. Now after the heights of breakfast, spirits fell quickly. It’s wet outside. We’re talking Belgian Grand Prix 1998 … Continue reading Day 4 – Nassogne 🇧🇪 to Luxembourg City 🇱🇺 - Day 5 – Luxembourg City Rest Day 🇱🇺
A 14km run, followed by a day of eating, strolling around in the sunshine and enjoying the Old Town My idea at the outset of this journey was to mix cycling and running, so this morning (despite the tired legs), I’m keen to get out for a run. I knock out an uninspiring 8.5 miles … Continue reading Day 5 – Luxembourg City Rest Day 🇱🇺 - Day 6 – Luxembourg City 🇱🇺 to Sarrebourg 🇫🇷 (via Saarbrucken 🇩🇪)
200 kilometers, 3 countries: Luxembourg, France and Germany Big day! I did not expect to be writing this 200km down the road from Luxembourg City, but sometimes everything comes together. Anna’s (Airbnb) flat was warm, so I found myself waking up super early. As opposed trying to get more sleep, I start riding in the … Continue reading Day 6 – Luxembourg City 🇱🇺 to Sarrebourg 🇫🇷 (via Saarbrucken 🇩🇪) - Day 7 – Sarrebourg to Mulhouse, via Strasbourg 🇫🇷
Countries: France, 197 Kilometers Despite my protestations, I lucked out last night, and the hotel was comfortable – unquestionably an improvement on the uninspiring budget option I had selected on the road. This morning my usual plan of sorting lunch at breakfast has been thwarted by a raft of measures designed to enforce social distancing … Continue reading Day 7 – Sarrebourg to Mulhouse, via Strasbourg 🇫🇷 - Day 8 – Mulhouse 🇫🇷 to Lucerne 🇨🇭
Countries: France, Germany and Switzerland. 160km After back to back 200km epics, I wake up, figuratively, on the wrong side of bed. Today offers a host of potential highlights: border crossings, mountains, and (all going well – for nothing is ever guaranteed when cycle touring) a destination famed for its lacustrine beauty. However, heading out, … Continue reading Day 8 – Mulhouse 🇫🇷 to Lucerne 🇨🇭 - Day 9 – Lucerne Rest Day 🇨🇭
What a delight it is to wake up at a leisurely hour and not worry about riding a bike. The goal today is fabulously simple: relax, recharge and enjoy yourself. This initially consists of FaceTiming friends, enjoying an unhurried coffee and heading down for breakfast. An absolute joy of the cycle touring experience is … Continue reading Day 9 – Lucerne Rest Day 🇨🇭 - Day 10 – Crossing The Alps – Lucerne to Trun 🇨🇭
Countries: Switzerland, Distance: 122km, Elevation gain: 6,000ft With hindsight I can look back and confidently assert that this was the most spectacular day I’ve ever had riding a bike. Of course life isn’t lived in hindsight and setting out early from Lucerne I’m uncertain as to what the day holds in store. Sticking with the … Continue reading Day 10 – Crossing The Alps – Lucerne to Trun 🇨🇭 - Day 11 – Trun 🇨🇭 to Rankweil 🇦🇹 (via Liechtenstein 🇱🇮)
Countries: Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Austria – 114km Today promises an intriguing day in prospect as we reverse direction to follow The Rhine downriver from its source in the Swiss Alps through Liechtenstein and towards Lake Constance in the North East. This means reacquainting with Eurovelo 15 (The Rhine Route), which we previously followed upriver from Strasbourg … Continue reading Day 11 – Trun 🇨🇭 to Rankweil 🇦🇹 (via Liechtenstein 🇱🇮) - Day 12 – Rankweil 🇦🇹 to Ottobeuren 🇩🇪
Countries: Austria, Switzerland and Germany. Distance: 120km If, for some bizarre reason, you had to rank the best breakfasts for cycling, ham salad wouldn’t make it anywhere near the list. This likely set the tone for what proved to be an incredibly testing day in the saddle. Again, I’m undecided on where to head today … Continue reading Day 12 – Rankweil 🇦🇹 to Ottobeuren 🇩🇪 - Day 13 – Ottobeuren to Munich 🇩🇪 (unlucky for some)
The Velominati, self-elected “keepers of the cog” and all round authority on cycling etiquette suggest that should you draw race number 13, you should “turn the number upside down to counter-act its negative energy”. I am not a superstitious man, but in prospect it seems fitting that the day fraught with the most potential peril … Continue reading Day 13 – Ottobeuren to Munich 🇩🇪 (unlucky for some) - Days 14 – 18 – Munich and Augsburg 🇩🇪
A long weekend in Munich: city of beer halls, sprawling parks, great coffee shops, rich history and striking architecture. While mostly an opportunity to sightsee and relax, repairs need to be arranged for my limping machine. So, 4 days are spent phoning local bike shops trying to source both the necessary part and labour required … Continue reading Days 14 – 18 – Munich and Augsburg 🇩🇪 - Day 19 – Munich 🇩🇪 to Salzburg 🇦🇹
Countries: Germany and Austria – 149km An early morning call from reception set the tone for what was a wonderful day. The part has arrived. Aware of the full context, they’re as excited about this development as I am as they smilingly hand over the parcel and watch as I depart with alacrity. A gruff … Continue reading Day 19 – Munich 🇩🇪 to Salzburg 🇦🇹 - Day 20 – Salzburg to Saxen 🇦🇹
Countries: Austria – Distance: 173km Free breakfast in the hostel? The dorm cost €11! Surely not? Ok, so the breakfast consisted of white bread rolls, jam and black coffee – but really, do you need anything else to ride a bike? I had planned on heading into Salzburg and having a relaxed morning and full … Continue reading Day 20 – Salzburg to Saxen 🇦🇹 - Day 21 – Saxen to Vienna 🇦🇹
Countries: Austria – 170 Kilometers The task today is a simple one: follow The Danube 110 miles downstream to Vienna. With a benign elevation profile, gentle tailwind, glorious sunshine and grandstand Viennese finish it should be a memorable ride. Tacking on an additional 50km last night turned out to be a good decision. After a … Continue reading Day 21 – Saxen to Vienna 🇦🇹 - Day 22 – Vienna Rest Day 🇦🇹
Each year the Mercer Quality of Living Survey evaluates 450 cities according to 39 factors (ranging from socio-cultural environment, to schools and education to recreation) to establish the ‘World’s Most Liveable City’ and for the past 10 years Vienna has emerged on top, beating the likes of Zurich, Vancouver, Munich and Auckland (2nd – joint … Continue reading Day 22 – Vienna Rest Day 🇦🇹 - Days 23 and 24 – Vienna to Bratislava, Bratislava Rest Day 🇦🇹 🇸🇰
Countries: Austria and Slovakia. Distance: 13km run and 83km bike In October 2019 Kenyan running superstar Eliud Kipchoge became the first human to complete a marathon distance (26.2 miles/42.2 kilometres) in under 2 hours. Previously thought to be impossible, this mind-bending feat of athleticism has become part of running folklore, mentionable in the same breath … Continue reading Days 23 and 24 – Vienna to Bratislava, Bratislava Rest Day 🇦🇹 🇸🇰 - Day 25 – Bratislava 🇸🇰 to Esztergom 🇭🇺
Countries: Slovakia and Hungary. Distance: 162km One of the joys of cycle touring is observing as the world slowly changes around you. From the language on the road signs, to topography, to climate, these changes are sometimes subtle and sometimes pronounced. Since departing Vienna towards Bratislava, the trip has taken on a distinctively different feel … Continue reading Day 25 – Bratislava 🇸🇰 to Esztergom 🇭🇺 - Day 26 – The Finale – Arrival in Budapest 🇭🇺
Countries: Hungary, Distance: 83km So here we are, the final day. All roads lead to Budapest. It feels a lifetime ago that I rolled off the in ferry in Dunkirk, laden with bags, without a formal plan and struck out for Ypres. I couldn’t have imagined the adventure would take me through: France, Belgium, Luxembourg, … Continue reading Day 26 – The Finale – Arrival in Budapest 🇭🇺
Cycling Across Europe 